Taking a Bite of the Baltics: Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania

The three Baltic nations of Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania sit on the northeastern edge of Europe, bordering the Baltic Sea and Russia. If you’re from the United States, like I am, they might not be at the top of your vacation list. These countries are smaller, lesser-traveled, and often overshadowed by Western Europe’s hotspots.

But after years of seeing photos of Tallinn’s medieval Old Town on Pinterest, I finally made it happen. This past May, I visited all three Baltic countries as part of a Northern Europe cruise — and then extended my trip to fit in Estonia. I was delighted by how much personality, history, and charm I found in each destination.

I finally had the opportunity to visit all three Baltic countries this past May (as part of a broader cruise across Northern Europe) and had a delightful time. When I was researching each destination ahead of my trip, I found very few online recommendations for each of the cities (specifically, information on Klaipeda, Lithuania, was extremely lacking). Hopefully, sharing my experiences and photos will inspire you to plan your next vacation to this lesser-known corner of Northern Europe!


Tallinn, Estonia

The northernmost Baltic country, Estonia, feels distinct from its neighbors. The language is more closely related to Finnish than to Latvian or Lithuanian, and its culture leans toward Nordic influences as well as Russian. Estonia only regained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, and you can still sense the blend of old and new across the country.

Although Tallinn wasn’t officially on my MSC cruise itinerary (see my [Northern Europe cruise post] for details), I couldn’t resist adding it as an overnight stop afterward. I flew in from Copenhagen and had about 20 hours to explore. Almost all of that time was spent in the Old Town, and honestly, it was enough to see the highlights.

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Alleyway off of Raekoja plats (the main square in Tallinn Old Town)

I didn’t have too long to explore Tallinn (only ~20 hours). While I was visiting, I spent almost all of my time in the Old Town area. I highly recommend our hotel, Hotel Telegraaf – it had a perfect location and really lovely amenities.

Though I wasn’t there long, I felt like I had enough time to hit all the main spots of Tallinn. When visiting Tallin, these are the things you must see and do:

1. Check out the Viru Gate

Built in the 14th century, the Viru Gate marks the entrance to Tallinn’s Old Town. Its two stone towers are the last remnants of the wall that once surrounded the city. The gate leads into Viru Street, one of the busiest pedestrian thoroughfares, making it the perfect place to start your Old Town wanderings.

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My favorite shot that I took while in Tallinn. Taken outside the Viru Gate near the flower market

To make things even more picturesque, a flower market sits just outside the gate. Vendors have been selling fresh blooms here for decades, rain or shine, 24/7. We visited at the end of May and were lucky to catch stalls overflowing with peonies.

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Viru gate from inside the Old Town

As one of the most recognizable landmarks in Tallinn, Viru Gate offers a seamless transition from the modern city to the well-preserved medieval Old Town.

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Peonies at the flower market!

We visited Tallinn at the end of May and had beautiful weather. Luckily, it doesn’t seem to matter what the weather is – the flower market is open rain or shine, 24/7, 365 days a year.

2. See the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is an Eastern Orthodox cathedral the heart of the city. It was built in the late 1800s, when Estonia was part of the former Russian Empire.

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Front view of the cathedral

The cathedral is the city’s largest cupola church, and strikes an impressive figure against the skyline of the city.

I was visiting on a Sunday morning, so ended up watching several local women making their way into the Cathedral for the morning’s service.

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Approaching the Cathedral from down the street

During the Soviet occupation of Estonia (between 1944–1991), as the Soviet regime was officially non-religious, many churches including the cathedral were left to fall into disrepair. The Cathedral and its interior have been meticulously restored since Estonia regained full independence in 1991.

3. Grab a bite at Cafe Maiasmokk

We stopped into Cafe Maiasmokk for breakfast on Sunday morning in Tallinn. I must say that many people seemed to have the same idea – the cafe opened at 9, and there was already a 10-person line when we arrived at 9:10am. The cafe is the oldest continuously operating café in Tallinn, dating back to 1864.

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Baked goods at Cafe Maiasmokk

While we waited to order, we perused all of the delicious homemade pastries displayed y the counter, and admired the unique interior decor. Ultimately we decided to order much more food than two people needed, but we ate it all! (Including cookies for breakfast.)

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An assortment of breakfast pastries – I loved the cheese bun the most, but finished everything in sight.

4. View Tallinn from a lookout perch

It’s nice to get a bird’s eye view of the city you’re visiting! I walked to a few different viewpoints around the edge of Tallinn on the morning I was there. None were too far from the main square area (at most, a 10 minute walk with some stairs at the end). Even better, while I was walking towards the lookout perches, I passed several quaint shops and art galleries that I wouldn’t have discovered otherwise.

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View of Tallinn from the Kohtuotsa lookout

There are several elevated perches scattered across the edges of the Old Town where you can look out across Tallinn. I’ve listed a few below:

  • Viewing platform of St. Olaf’s Church
  • Kohtuotsa Viewing Platform
  • Patkuli Viewing Platform

5. Get lost in the streets!

Tallinn is a dream for anyone who loves cobblestones and colorful medieval facades. (If you also love a cobblestone street, check out my posts on Nice and the South of France.) My hotel was across from St. Catherine’s Passage, one of the prettiest alleys in the city, lined with artisan workshops.

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St. Catherine’s Passage – a cute old medieval alley that happened to be across the street from my hotel
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And don’t forget to look down side streets and doorways—Tallinn is full of photogenic details waiting to be noticed.

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Restaurant Olde Hansa

I didn’t eat here, but Olde Hansa a highly recommended spot for anyone visiting Tallinn. Olde Hansa restaurant offers authentic medieval experience in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town. We did buy some spiced almonds from a street vendor associated with the restaurant, and those were delicious.

I actually was not able to get a reservation on Saturday night for 2 people fairly well in advance, so if you’re interested, reserve early!

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Tallinn has a ton of cool doors – see how many you can in spot!
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Riga, Latvia

Onto our next Baltic country, Latvia – we stopped in Riga, the country’s capital city, for the day. Riga was an unexpected gem for me, but that may just have been because I didn’t do my research properly. I don’t think I was expecting how vibrant Riga would be. The Old Town had a lot of personality, with a number of quirky buildings, charming shops, and welcoming cafes.

More cool doors! The Baltics are full of them.

While in Riga, you must:

1. Relax in Dome Square, the main square in Riga

We spent over an hour sitting in Dome Square at one of the cafes. The square was peaceful in the morning, but got busier as the day went on – a great place to people watch!

Pastries from Rigensis bakery (more on that below)
Walking through Dome Square

By 2-3 pm, the crowds in Riga’s Old Town had abated. The busy hours were mainly from 10am-1pm.

2. Grab a pastry at Rigensis bakery

Picture the most wholesome, homegrown bakery imaginable, filled with the wafting scent of baking bread, and then quadruple it. That’s the vibe I got at Rigensis Bakery, which is located right off of the Dome Square. Inside seating is even cuter than the outside.

Cinnamon sugar pretzel
Exterior of the bakery

3. Check out the main architectural buildings in Riga

There quite a few architectural anomalies worth checking out when in Riga Old Town. Luckily, everything is within a few minutes walk of each other.

First, the Three Brothers:

The Three Brothers

The Three Brothers are the oldest medieval dwelling houses in Riga, built between the 15th and 17th centuries. The oldest house of the three is number 17 on the far right.

Next, the Cat House:

The Cat House (if you don’t look up, you might miss this one!)

This one was more humorous than historical. The building was owned by a wealthy Latvian trader who, out of bitter resentment for not being admitted to the Great Guild, put cat figures bearing expressive postures on the roof of his building.

As a result, cats are the unofficial symbol of Riga – every souvenir shop has tons of cat items to choose from.

And finally, the House of the Blackheads:

House of the Blackheads

Built in the 1300s, destroyed during the WW2 bombings in the 1940s, and rebuilt in the 1990s, the House of the Blackheads has an incredibly distinct look. The building gets its name from the Brotherhood of Blackheads, a guild for unmarried merchants, shipowners and foreigners during the 1500s in Riga.

4. Pop into shops for a souvenir or two

…or five. Here’s a list of my favorite stores in Riga if you’re looking for a high-quality gift or keepsake (i.e., not just a plastic keychain):

  • Baltic Gifts
  • Lotte’s Stationary Store
  • Pienene
  • Gallery ETMO
DOM is a fairly popular restaurant in Riga with a rooftop terrace. A lot of people were taking pictures outside the building. I caught this during a rare in-between moment.
One of the many cool views when wandering Riga

Not pictured, but I brought home Latvian honey, an adorable Latvian doll, and several candles. I amassed souvenirs from across the Baltics during this trip – Riga had some of the best.


Klaipėda, Lithuania

Of the three cities, Klaipėda was the sleepiest. As Lithuania’s main port town, it’s a common cruise destination, but for a deeper experience of the country, I’d recommend Vilnius, the capital. Still, Klaipėda made for a relaxing day of cafés and slow wandering.

Nevertheless, here are the things I’d recommend doing if you have time to kill in Klaipėda:

1. As always, start with baked goods.

Just off of Theater Square, we stumbled into Cremia Bakery. This is a really cute spot with an array of delectable pastries and desserts. We started our day in Klaipėda fairly early in the morning, so ordered breakfast teas and croissants.

We spent an hour or two sitting in the sun outside this cafe, enjoying the beautiful day and people-watching.

2. Eat lunch on the water

The “Meridianas” is a restaurant in Klaipėda, located on a historic sailing ship docked on the Danė River. We really couldn’t find anywhere else to eat, so climbed aboard here and really enjoyed ourself over a leisurely lunch, served by waiters dressed in navy uniforms.

The Meridianas is always docked here! You can’t miss it if you’re following the river.
Tried a Lithuanian beer with my lunch. Why the heck not?

All in all, we found Klaipėda to be a very quiet town during our daytrip that Tuesday in late May. None of the shops seemed to be open. The only other area where we could have potentially spent time was the small crafts and arts market in Theater Square.

I don’t have a photo of the market, but they mostly sold amber, which was a recurring theme across the Baltic countries.


Visiting Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania in one trip gave me a well-rounded taste of the Baltics. Tallinn is picture-perfect and steeped in history, Riga brims with life and charm, and Klaipėda offers a slower pace on the water. Together, they make a great itinerary—especially if you’re already exploring Northern Europe.

If you love wandering cobblestone streets, hunting down pastries, and uncovering under-the-radar destinations, the Baltics deserve a spot on your list.